If you’ve ever tried to dress a kid, or yourself, you know how important a placket is. It allows the dress to open up wide enough to easily take it off and put it on. Unless a dress has a wide waist and a lot of ease, a placket or a zipper is needed.
Below I’ll show you the easiest way to sew a placket and get a clean result that you can be proud of.
The width of your placket is going to depend on the overlap of your dress. Duchess and Hare dresses overlap 1/2″ so my placket is 1.5″ wide and 6.5″ long.
Press the placket in half down the center. Fold one edge under 1/4” and press.
Find the center back of the skirt and cut a 3” slit in the fabric.
Fold the corners down so that your slit looks like the photo to the right.
Place the unpressed edge of the placket on top of the fold you made and pin. Do not pin all the way through the skirt. Only pin it to the folded layer from the previous step. Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
You may find that you can’t keep the slit in the skirt completely straight and there is a small V shape. That is ok. When you sew, this will reduce the bulk at the corner and keep the skirt from puckering. Just sew a straight line across but make sure you catch some fabric at the V.
When you’re finished sewing, press the placket away from the skirt.
Fold the placket over to enclose the raw edge and edge stitch the placket to secure. Trim the excess.
Fold one side of the placket over and pin. Now align the top edge of the skirt, overlapping the placket and press. Use lots of steam.
And now you have a nice placket sewn into your skirt with very few puckers. The narrower you make your seam allowance at that V, the fewer puckers you will get in your finished garment and the nicer your dress will look.
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- Blue Dress Fabric – Kaufman Manchester Yarn Dyed in Blue
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